Exhibiting hibiscus at hibiscus shows is a major hobby for many enthusiasts and when the number of blooms at many shows declined to 2-300 from nearly 1000, experts were puzzled. Exhibitors from southern Florida who normally had 100 blooms to show had few or none! Only recently has it been determined that the gall midge is the culprit. Undoubtedly the midge is causing problems in many people's yards!! For further information click on gall midge and this University of Florida site that refers to it as the "hibiscus bud midge."

Here are just a few tips on growing better hibiscus. It's wise to check with local growers to see what works best for them.

Fertilize lightly and often -- hibiscus are heavy feeders. Use fertilizers that include the trace elements such as iron, copper, boron, etc. A dry fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 is all right, however most growers prefer low phosphate fertilizer such as a 7-2-7, feeling that it helps produce the most impressive quality and quantity of blooms. Those so-called "bloom specials" with the 10-40-10 type of formula are avoided by most professional growers -- phosphorous can build up in the soil over time and cause a general decline in the health of tropical hibiscus plants. Over-use of high nitrogen fertilizers may encourage leaf growth rather than flower production. Water soluble fertilizers are good both for spraying leaves (foliar feeding) and for fertilizing potted plants. (High phosphorous water soluble fertilizers can be used successfully when applied as a foliar feeding.) Experiment and see what works well for your local growing conditions. Slightly acid soil (a pH of 5.5 to 7.8) helps the plant absorb nutrients. Hard water and proximity to things like concrete can move the pH in the wrong direction -- toward an alkaline pH.

Watering -- after pruning, with fewer leaves, your hibiscus need less water. Especially with potted plants, you need to be careful with watering. A big, leafy plant will "suck up" more water than a plant with fewer leaves. If you lift or drag your potted plant and it's heavy, the soil could be too wet. A plant in nearly dry soil is surprisingly light. Become accustomed to gauging soil wetness. Remember that both soil and pot need to drain well.

Insects, such as aphids, thrips, scale, whiteflies, mealy bugs, etc. should be checked for frequently. Water plants thoroughly before using insecticides to lessen shock. It's usually best to apply in the early morning or in the evening when temperatures are below 80F degrees. When applying, both the tops and undersides of the leaves should be sprayed. Always read the labels for precautions and application instructions.
For years we have been told that dishwashing detergents like Dawn and true soaps were safe and effective insecticides. More recently, the thinking is that they, especially the detergents, can damage leaves and make them more susceptible to further damage. Insecticidal soaps use different ingredients and are considered safer -- see the link to the UF page below. Triazicide, a contact insecticide, can deal with many problems. Acephate, found in Orthene, has been a popular systemic in the past. Certain types of oils, such as very light weight horticultural oil, neem oil, etc. are useful on many insects. Neem oil, especially if it still contains its azadirachtin, is especially effective. Spinosad, good for thrips, has been reported as being effective on spider mites.
Insecticides containing imidacloprid or acetamiprid, two systemic ingredients, are excellent for controlling whiteflies, mealybugs and other especially troublesome insects. Check the labels -- brands can change ingredients. (These and other neonicotinoids are being investigated in connection with bee problems.) Watch for spider mites after using these products -- very light weight horticultural oils will help with spider mites.
WD40 or Pam, sprayed on the stem and branches but avoiding the leaves, are excellent for controlling snow and other types of scale. NEVER use liquid Malathion on hibiscus -- the oil is too thick. For help in identifying your insect problem, please visit this Australian website. Here's a page dealing with the pink mealybug.

Remember that insecticides can hurt bees and beneficial insects, so use wisely -- only as necessary. Insects are part of the food-chain. Some insects are food for other insects and insects can be food for reptiles, fish, birds, bats and other animals. Recent studies have shown a significant decline in the insect populations in many parts of the world.

For important information on insecticides, please visit this UF page.

Pruning is used to shape future growth, invigorate old plants, manage plant size and get rid of diseased and dead wood. While the tropical hibiscus can be pruned any time, probably the ideal is the earliest where the resulting tender new growth will be safe from cold damage*. For shaping purposes, some growers will prune the longest third of the branches and return in 4 to 6 weeks and prune the next longest third. Only sharp, clean shears should be used. A clean cut should be just above and angled down and away from an "eye" or node. (A node is the junction of a leaf and the stem. There is a small bud in this junction that is activated after pruning.) Cutting above outward pointing "eyes" will encourage growth in that direction. The new growth resulting from pruning invigorates the plant and will provide a source for many new blooms. (See "Watering" above.)
Another approach is to pinch off (between thumb & finger) the tiny, developing leaf or two at the end of a limb or branch of a young plant. Pinching off that young growth can encourage branching and help to keep a young plant compact.

Freeze-damaged plants should be cut back to living wood after all danger of freezing has passed or when regrowth resumes. You can check for living wood by scraping a bit of bark off with your thumbnail to see if there is any green underneath. Once you have found where live wood starts, prune just above the next node (eye) below that point.

Another pruning idea... To keep getting blooms, think of your plant as having three sides. Prune one side at a time so that the other two sides can still produce blooms. Return in 4 to 6 weeks and prune the next side and so on.

*Temperatures of 35 to 40F can sometimes cause injury to tender new growth. Temperatures that are just below freezing for several hours can cause severe damage. The longer these tropical plants have to endure these temperatures, the greater the risk. Trapping ground heat by covering the plants can prevent damage. Using low nitrogen fertilizers as fall approaches helps to make them a little more resistant to the cold.

The Tropical Hibiscus Handbook (120 pages with many color photographs) is an excellent source of hibiscus and general gardening information. See the American Hibiscus Society's Publications page.

Back to: Hibiscus Home Page